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          How To

How To Section

Contents:

1. How to Select, Cut, Light, and Smoke a Cigar

2. How to Roll Your Own - Injector Method

3. How to Roll Your Own - Roller Method

4. How to Select, Load, Light, Clean, and Smoke a Pipe

5. How to Chew Tobacco

6. How to Use Snuff

7. How to Refill and Repair a Butane or Zippo Lighter

8. How to Season your Humidor

9. How to Calibrate a Hygrometer

1. How to Select, Cut, Light, and Smoke a Cigar

Selecting A Cigar

Wrapper Style Color Intensity
Candela Green Light
Natural Light Brown Medium
Maduro/Oscuro Dark Brown/Black Heavy
Shape Classic Length Classic Ring Guage

Giant

9

52

Double Corona

7 3/4

49

Churchill

7

47

Perfecto

All Lengths

All Sizes

Pyramid

7

36-54

Torpedo

6 1/2

52

Toro

6

50

Robusto

5

50

Grand Corona

6 1/2

46

Corona Extra

5 1/2

46

Giant Corona

7 1/2

44

Lonsdale

6 1/2

42

Long Corona

6

42

Corona

5 1/2

42

Petit Corona

5

42

Long Panatella

7 1/2

38

Panatela

6

38

Short Panatela

5

38

Slim Panatela

6

35

Small Panatela

5

33

Cigarillos

4

26

*Actual Sizes between brands may vary.

Cutting

You have three different options when cutting your cigar. You can use a cutter, a punch, or bite it.

          a. For a Cutter: Looking at the end of the cigar, there are usually three rings. You want to cut between the 2nd and third ring. Insert the head of the cigar into the cutter usually 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch down. Squeeze you cutter to cut the cigar and you are ready to smoke. Cutting too far up will cause the cigar to unravel, be careful. It is always best to cut short. you can recut later. Double bladed cutters always cut better than single blades.

          b. For a Punch: Hold the metal tip of the punch up to the end of the cigar. Push and twist the punch into the end. Pull it out and your cigar is ready. Twisting helps create a smoother cut.

          c. For Biting: You can bite off the end similar to using a cutter to cut the end of the cigar. This is not recommended since it can damage your cigar.

Lighting & Smoking

Butane lighters and wooden matches are best. Regular lighters can introduce other chemicals and flavors into your cigar. Smoking too fast will make your cigar burn hot and ruin the flavor. Smoking too slow will cause the cigar to go out and constantly need relighting.

a. Remove cigar from package if necessary.

b. Place banded end between your lips to form an airtight seal.

c. Light your match or flame away from your face.

d. Bring the flame to the tip of the cigar.

e. Puff on the cigar in short bursts and rotate it slowly to burn the tip evenly.  

f. The tip of the cigar will begin to glow and the smoke will draw more easily.

          g. It is not recommended to inhale, although some cigar smokers do. It is meant for the taste to be in your mouth and to then be blown out.

h. Continue to rotate your cigar about every minute during smoking to burn evenly.

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2. How to Roll Your Own - Injector Method

a. Open Injector.

b. Put desired amount of tobacco evenly in compartment.

c. Place tipped cigarette shell on the plastic/metal tube.

d. Close Injector firmly to lock into place.

e. Push the slide as far as it will go in one motion.

f. Pull it back together.

g. Lift the lid and remove injected cigarette.

h. Tapping down the tobacco may be needed.

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3. How to Roll Your Own - Roller Method

a. Open roller lever.

b. Put desired amount of tobacco in crease between rollers.

c. Close lever and roll downwards several times.

d. Insert paper between roller and lever gummed side down.

e. Roll downwards until gummed part is sticking out.

f. Lick gummed edge and roll downwards several more times.

g. Open lever and remove rolled cigarette.

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 4. How to Select, Load, Light, Clean, and Smoke a Pipe

Selecting A Pipe

Briar - Briar pipes originate from Saint-Claude, where they were made for the first time in 1850. Briar wood has a number of properties which make it highly suitable for making pipes: it can withstand high temperatures, is exceptionally hard, yet extremely light and looked after, it will last a lifetime. The briar root, is the part between the roots and the actual trunk of the tree. The tree is found on the hillsides of mainly Mediterranean regions. The older the shrub, the better the briar and thus your pipe. The wood is only suitable to be carved into its final shape after extensive treatment.

Meerschaum - Meerschaum pipes come mainly from Turkey. Meerschaum , a German word meaning literally ‘sea-foam’, is a fairly scarce product actually is a mineral, a rock made up of magnesium which can be found from a depth of approximately 25 metres. Meerschaum’s pipe-making qualities lie in the fact that it is a very lightweight, porous material, and is very soft, making it easy to work with. In addition, a meerschaum pipe changes colour over the years as it is smoked.

Corn Cob - The corncob pipe originates from America. These pipes are made from a corncob specially cultivated for the purpose., It is dried for approximately 2 years before being treated and coated. One cob normally makes two corncob pipes. What is unusual about this type of pipe is that, in addition to being very light and porous, it can take on a certain flavour and has a relatively short lifetime, although this is offset by very low cost.

Loading Your Pipe

a. Loosely fill the bowl with pipe tobacco.

b. DO NOT press firmly or pinch the tobacco with your thumb or fingers.

c. Use a tamper tool to press down the tobacco until its springy.

d. Bowl should be around 1/2 to 3/4 full of tobacco.

e. Take a test draw for resistance. If you have resistance, reload your bowl.

f. Repeat fill and tamper until tobacco is even with top of the bowl.

Lighting Your Pipe

False Light

a. Put pipe between your lips.

b. Apply match or torch flame to top of bowl in a circular motion.

c. Take small puffs on the pipe to char the tobacco on top.

d. Tobacco will swell up and unravel in the bowl.

e. This expels any extra moisture from the tobacco and prepares the tobacco for the True Light.

True Light

a. After the false light, the tobacco may have expanded above the top of the bowl.

b. Tamper the tobacco back to the top of the bowl level.

c. Relight your match or torch and reapply flame to the top of the bowl in a circular motion.

d. Take small puffs to stoke the flame.

e. The tobacco should not unravel anymore or puff up like it did with the false light.

f. You are now lit, enjoy puffing your pipe.

Smoking Your Pipe

a. If the smoke is too hot when entering your mouth, slow down and take long rhythmic puffs.

b. If your pipe goes out between puffs, this is normal. Relight according to true light steps.

          c. If your pipe gets juicy while you smoke, try to keep your mouth as dry as possible. You may need to also clean your pipe by running a pipe cleaner through it.

          d. If your pipe starts to taste nasty, stop. This can be caused by smoking too fast or the pipe not being broken in properly.

          e. DO NOT take the stem off the pipe while it is hot. This may cause the stem to get loose or even break.

Cleaning Your Pipe

a. Use a Pipe Reamer to break up the tobacco in the bowl and tap out.

          b. Run a pipe cleaner through the stem and then blow on the stem to ensure nothing is blocking the air passage to the bowl.

c. Optionally you can use Pipe Sweetener to clear the pipe of old lingering tobacco flavours.

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5. How to Chew Tobacco

a. Open can and take a whiff. If the smell turns you off, try a different flavor.

b. Pull a few leaves off the plug or remove some from the can.

          c. Place them in your mouth between your cheek and molars. Finer cuts can be placed behind your bottom lip.

d. DO NOT swallow from this point forward.

e. For Plugs move the "chaw" around so that you can chew it.

f. Chew lightly, do not destroy your "chaw" and your mouth will begin salivating.

          g. For other chews your mouth will salivate upon placing it in your mouth and no chewing is required.

h. When you have enough spit worked up, spit the juice out.

i. Continue until flavor is gone or you are finished.

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6. How to Use Snuff

a. Start with small portions and place snuff on back of hand.

b. Bring hand to nose and sniff.

c. By sniffing carefefully it should remain in the front part of your nose.

d. Sneezing may occur and which can be relieving, but will happen less over time.

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7. How to Refill and Repair a Butane or Zippo Lighter

Butane Troubleshoot Guide

Lighter Will Spark But Not Ignite

Out of Fuel

Air Lock

Dirty Burner

Flame Adjuster Too Low

Refill Lighter

Bleed Tank

Blow Out Burner With Compressed Air

Set Adjuster Height

Lighter Will Not Spark

No Flint Left

Replace Flint
Flame Jumps

Air In Tank

Burner Malfunction

Bleed Tank

Return For Service

Hissing Sound Is Heard

Butane Leak

Flame Adjustment Too High

Return For Service

Set Adjuster Lower

Flame Rises Low Fuel Refill Lighter
Flame Decreases

Low Fuel

Dirty Burner

Refill Lighter

Blow Out Burner With Compressed Air

Refilling Your Butane

a. Set flame adjustment to the lowest position.

b. Bleed the tank by pressing metal nozzle in lighter.

c. Fill lighter in upside down position only.

d. Place nozzle tip directly onto valve opening and press down firmly for 4-5 seconds.

e. Repeat previous step if necessary.

f. Butane spray-back may occur with some lighters. This usually means its full.

g. Warm lighter in your hand or let sit for 2 minutes. This allows excess butane to dissipate.

h. Set flame adjustment to desired height. Light away.

Refilling Your Zippo

a. Open lighter

b. Pull inside case out of outside lighter housing.

c. Holding upside down, moisten cotton inside lighter with Zippo fluid. DO NOT saturate.

d. Reassemble your Zippo.

Zippo Flint Replacement

a. Set flame adjustment to the lowest position.

b. Remove flint screw or slide flint plunger back to expose flint chamber. 

c. Tap lighter to remove flint or dust particles. Flint wheel may need to be cleaned with a stiff brush.

d. Insert replacement flint into flint chamber. Never force it into chamber.

e. Replace flint screw or slide plunger back into place.

f. If flint jams or will not turn, repeat steps.

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8. How to Season your Humidor

          a. Take an unscented and free of soap sponge and get it wet with distilled water or humidor solution.

          b. Wipe down all exposed wood on the inside of the humidor including trays, dividers, and the lid interior. Do not wipe down finished edges.

c. Put more water in the sponge, seal it in a baggie.

d. Place it in the humidor and close the lid.

          e. Fill your humidification device with solution or distilled water so that it is full, but not saturated. Remove excess water.

          f. Place your humidification device and hygrometer in your humidor with the sponge. Leave this to sit overnight.

          g. If the sponge is dry, refresh the humidification device the next day. If the sponge is damp leave it alone.

h. Let it sit another night and then remove the sponge and plastic bag.

i. Your humidor walls have now absorbed enough water to store your cigars.

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9. How to Calibrate a Hygrometer

Test your hygrometer by placing it in a wet cloth for 1/2 an hour or until it reads 95-100 %. If the hygrometer does not reach 95-100%, calibration is needed.

First you must do a salt test. This is done because when salt and water are at equilibrium in a saturated solution, the humidity is 75%. This is the best reference point for calibration.

Salt Test

a. Place some table salt in a small container (bottle cap size).

b. Dampen the salt with water. Do not make it "soupy", just enough for a damp pile of salt.

c. Place the container of salt in a plastic ziplock baggie with your hygrometer.

d. Let sit for at least 8 hours.

e. Get your hygrometer reading.

If it is 75% then your hygrometer is calibrated already. Otherwise note the difference in the percentage and direction. Example: subtract 5 or add 10.This will be a reference when calibrating.

Calibrating

Inspect the back of your hygrometer for a screwdriver slot or calibration screw. If you have a slot or screw then use Calibration B, otherwise use Calibration A.

Calibration A

a. Remove the back panel from the hygrometer.

b. Remove plastic insert, if necessary. Important to note how it was placed inside.

c. Inside will be a coil in the center. DO NOT touch this.

d. There will be a ring or adjustment tab outside of this to calibrate the hygrometer.

          e. Turn over your hygrometer and note the reading. Add or subtract the difference that you collected in the salt test. This will be the reading you want your hygrometer to display, not 75%.

f. Adjust the ring or tab to your determined setting.

g. Reassemble your hygrometer and your calibrated.

Calibration B

          a. Note the reading on the hygrometer. Add or subtract the difference that you collected in the salt test. This will be the reading you want your hygrometer to display, not 75%.

b. Adjust the screw in the back of the hygrometer, and watch the reading until you get your setting.

c. If turning the screw doesnt do anything, follow Calibration A.

If this calibration does not work, then we suggest a new hygrometer.

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